The symposium will be held in English.
Location: Nina van Leerzaal, Allard Pierson.
Theme
Cities have played a central role in the history of food. Their impact on the organization of food systems, the rise of modern food technologies, and the emergence of new food cultures and identities has been so profound that some scholars have declared it difficult to “separate urban food history from food history tout court.” The growth of cities, towns, and other dense settlements, in turn, has been shaped decisively by geographies of food production and consumption within and across city borders. Food trade, imperialism, and migration have expanded metropoles’ transportation networks, sensory landscapes, and culinary infrastructures. Migrant marketplaces have forged new alignments of global food chains, conjuring new forms of customs, commerce and cuisine.
Programme
Day 1, 5 June
- 10:00 - 10:05: Welcome by Els van der Plas (director Allard Pierson)
- 10:05 - 11:00: Keynote lecture by Kate Brown (Massachusetts Institute of Technology in Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA)
- 11:00 - 12:00 - Panel 1: Economics of food provisioning
- Chair: Lisa Haushofer (University of Amsterdam, The Netherlands)
- Ayşen Tanyeri (Northeastern University, USA) and Nil Tekgül (Bilkent Ankara University, Turkey)
Food Provisioning to the Cities in the Early Modern Period: A Comparative Analysis of the East and West - Renata Motta (Heidelberg University, Germany)
Alleviate hunger while transforming the city: food sovereignty, diverse economies and agroecology
- 12:00 - 13:00: Lunch break
- 13:00 - 14:00 - Panel 2: Urban food activism
- Chair: Amber Striekwold (Utrecht University, The Netherlands)
- Hanna Garth (Princeton University, USA)
Lessons from the Food Justice Movement in South Central Los Angeles - Peter van Dam and Max Hell (University of Amsterdam, The Netherlands)
Feeding the Movement: Food as a Tool for Urban Social Transformation in Amsterdam’s Squatter Communities, 1970s-Present - Joel Mead (Liverpool University, UK)
Hens in the hinterland: ‘Chickens’ Lib’, and the protest against battery cage eggs in Britain 1971-1989
- 14:30 - 15:00: Break
- 15:00 - 15:30: Intermezzo - Presentation by Ayra Kip (Kip Republic, The Netherlands)
- 15:30 - 17:00 - Panel 3: Colonial relations in the city
- Chair: Jon Verriet (Netherlands Commission for UNESCO)
- Aastha Gaur (National University of Singapore, Singapore)
Hierarchies of Flesh: Caste and Meat Markets in Late 19th Century Western India - Richard Herzog (Philipps University Marburg, Germany)
What uprisings in Mexico City reveal about Spanish anxieties and food hierarchies (17th century) - Ary Budiyanto (Brawijaya University, Indonesia)
Saoto Peddlers in the Colonial Cityscape: Food, Hygiene, and Urban Life in Java
Day 2, 6 June
- 09:30 - 11:00 - Panel 4: Urban transformation
- Chair: Merit Hondelink (University of Groningen, The Netherlands)
- Bernardine Farrell (University of Kent, UK)
Moving and Making: How the herring - ‘silver darling of the sea’ co-designed an urban coast - Jessica Kenyatta Walker (University of Michigan Ann Arbor, USA)
Gardens In the House: Detroit House Music and African American Foodscapes - Kenneth Iain Macdonald (Toronto University, Canada)
Commercial Class Wars: Food, Mobility, and the Right to the Street in late 19th Century Toronto
- 11:00 - 11:30: Break
- 11:30 - 12:30 - Panel 5: Blurring boundaries
- Chair: Manpreet K. Janeja (Allard Pierson, University of Amsterdam)
- Voltaire Cang (Rinri Institute of Ethics, Japan)
Reviving Food Production and Reclaiming Agricultural Heritage in Tokyo - Sümeyye Hoşgör Büke (Vienna University, Austria)
Grocery Stores at the Intersection of Eating Out and Eating at Home: Food Consumption in Eighteenth-Century Istanbul
- 12:30 - 13:00: Manpreet K. Janeja
Food and the City: Interconnections.
Some key points across the panels - 13:00 - 14:00 - Lunch break
- 14:00 - 15:45 - Round table discussion The city, food and sustainability
- Moderator: Jon Verriet
- Onno Kleyn (Dutch independent food and wine writer)
- Lelany Lewis (The Next Speaker, Nyam Amsterdam, The Netherlands)
- Herman van Vliet (Dutch/Frisian culinary historian, sustainable food truck entrepreneur and secretary of the Foundation for Historic Food Culture (SHE))
- Antonia Weiss (Wageningen University, The Netherlands)
- 15:45 - 16:00 - Wrap up and end of Symposium
At the end of the second day of the symposium, there will be an opportunity to visit the “Amsterdam Eats” exhibition at the Allard Pierson (4pm – 5 pm) for free.
About
The Amsterdam Symposium on the History of Food is the annual international point of assembly and an exchange of knowledge in the field of the food history in the Netherlands. It intends to stimulate debate and research that bridges the gap between different disciplines. Another aim is to transfer academic research to a wider public and stimulate research using the collections of the University of Amsterdam. The symposium is therefore targeted at both an academic and a professional audience.
Speakers biographies
Kate Brown is the Thomas M. Siebel Distinguished Professor in the History of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in Cambridge, Massachusetts, United States. She is the author of the prize-winning histories Plutopia: Nuclear Families in Atomic Cities and the Great Soviet and American Plutonium Disasters (Oxford 2013) and A Biography of No Place: From Ethnic Borderland to Soviet Heartland (Harvard 2004). Her work has also been supported by the Carnegie Foundation, the NEH, ACLS, IREX, and the American Academy of Berlin, among others.
Ayşen Tanyeri is an economist with extensive experience in international development as a researcher and practitioner, currently serving as a Teaching Professor in the Economics Department at Northeastern University in Boston. She has published on agriculture and food policy and is currently working on a manuscript about historical factors shaping food systems and culinary practices in the Mediterranean World.
Nil Tekgül is an assistant professor of history at Bilkent University, holding a PhD from the same institution. Specializing in the history of emotions in the early modern Ottoman Empire, she has published several works, including the book Emotions in the Ottoman Empire (2023).
Renata Motta is a sociologist whose interdisciplinary research interests include food studies, critical agrarian studies, and gender studies, focusing on the role of social mobilization and state-society relations in struggles over food and agrarian futures. She is a Professor at the Heidelberg Center for Ibero-American Studies at the University of Heidelberg and leads the Food for Justice Research Group, examining food inequalities in Brazil and German.
Dr. Hanna Garth is an Assistant Professor of Anthropology at Princeton University and a sociocultural and medical anthropologist whose research focuses on urban food access and the global food system. She studies these themes in Latin America and the Caribbean and among Black and Latinx communities in the United States, and is the author of Food in Cuba (2020).
Prof. dr. Peter van Dam is Professor of Dutch History at the University of Amsterdam and his research focuses on the history of civic initiative and activism. His current work examines how people have tried to promote various forms of sustainability.
Max Hell is a research master's student in History at the University of Amsterdam. He wrote his BA thesis on the early history of vegetarianism in the Netherlands and was a research intern on the project “Food as Commons in Amsterdam” at the University of Amsterdam.
Joel Mead is a third-year PhD student in the Department of History at the University of Liverpool, focusing his doctoral research on the history of eggs in Britain, 1943-1999. His research adopts a holistic approach examining production, consumption, and societal context in relation to gender, health, and animal welfare.
Ayra Kip is a writer and cultural curator. Together with her twin sister Ira she is the co-owner of KIP Republic: an agency focused on storytelling through cultural art projects and events that encourages conversation, critical analysis, and community building.
Aastha Gaur is pursuing a RMA at the National University of Singapore focusing on culinary developments in the Poona Cantonment in the late 19th-early 20th centuries. She holds a BASc degree in Interdisciplinary Studies from The University of Hong Kong, with a focus on Food Studies and Social Innovation and a minor in History.
Dr. Richard Herzog is a postdoctoral research fellow in the History Department at Philipps University Marburg (Germany) and at the DFG Collaborative Research Centre 138. His research interests include Spanish America in a global perspective, Nahua history, food studies, and the history of emotions. His PhD thesis on native scholars of colonial Mexico was published in 2024.
Ary Budiyanto is a lecturer in Anthropology at Universitas Brawijaya. His research focuses on the intersections of religion, cross-cultural dynamics, and food studies in Indonesia. He has authored key works on Indonesian cuisine and is currently engaged in the "EthnoSotography" project exploring the socio-cultural history of Soto.
Dr. Bernardine Farrell is a food anthropologist bridging academia and industry. She is known for leading teams since 2015, and has received awards and gained recognition for innovative sustainable practices and education. Her work empowers food citizens, especially children and families, through sustainable food skill programs that support connections for developing sustainable and healthy food choices.
Jessica Kenyatta Walker is an Assistant Professor of American Culture and Afro-American and African Studies at The University of Michigan. She explores food and racialization within everyday cultural landscapes, drawing on interdisciplinary fields like Black Studies, Critical Food Studies, Black Feminist Theory, and theories of space and place. She received her PhD in American Studies from The University of Maryland.
Prof. dr. Ken MacDonald holds the position of Professor of Geography at the University of Toronto, where he is also Director of the Centre for Diaspora and Transnational Studies and a core member of the Culinaria Research Centre. His research encompasses many transnational processes, with a focus on cultural formations and food-related work, including studies of cultural economies, markets, and increases in vulnerability within urban food systems.
Dr. Voltaire Cang is specialized in the study of different forms of Japanese cultural heritage and their relationship to contemporary society, culture, and identity. He is a Tokyo-based permanent researcher for the RINRI Institute of Ethics (Japan) and holds trustee, board director, and editorial committee positions with various international organizations related to food studies and anthropology.
Sümeyye Hoşgör Büke is currently a Post-Doc Researcher at the University of Vienna, working on a project tracing the food consumption of Ottomans through tereke registers. She holds a Ph.D. in History from Middle East Technical University, Ankara, Turkey, with a thesis on changes in Ottoman consumption in the eighteenth century.
Onno Kleyn is a culinary journalist and writer who started writing about cooking and wine in 1988. He is widely recognized for his contributions to De Volkskrant newspaper, including columns and articles, recipe columns, and a regular wine column. He has published more than forty books. Since 2010, he also trains people to write about food and wine at his Academie Culinair/Wijnschrijven.
Lelani Lewis is a chef, food stylist, and culinary activist who grew up in South London, and now lives in Amsterdam. After studying sociology and working as a social worker, she followed her passion to become a professional cook and started Code Noir in 2017, a platform exploring Caribbean cuisines through research on food, history, resistance, memory, and colonialism.
Herman J. van Vliet studied history at the University of Groningen and spent two decades as a passionate farmer. For over twelve years, he has run a food truck specializing in regional organic cuisine. He serves as secretary of the Foundation for Historic Food Culture (SHE), and published about the Frisian historical cuisine.
Antonia Weiss is a postdoctoral researcher at Wageningen’s Rural Sociology Group and a Research Fellow at the AMS Institute. Her work uses a multidisciplinary approach focusing on social and urban environmental justice. Her current project, Deep Foodscapes, explores how food environments are shaped by generations of (post)migrants. It aims to co-create a blueprint for a healthier, greener, and more inclusive city with residents.
Symposiumcomité
The symposium is organized by the symposium committee:
- IJsbrand van Dijk (chair), Librarian at University Library, University of Amsterdam
- Lisa Haushofer, Assistant Professor of Food History, University of Amsterdam
- Merit Hondelink, Senior KNA specialist Archeobotany/PhD-candidate in Archaeobotany & Culinary History, University of Groningen
- Manpreet K. Janeja, Researcher, Allard Pierson Amsterdam, University of Amsterdam, in collaboration with Meertens Institute, Royal Netherlands Academy of Arts & Sciences (KNAW)
- Maarten Kuiper, Lecturer Food & Dietetics, Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences
- Katell Lavéant, Curator of Printed Works & the Collection of the History of Food at Allard Pierson, University of Amsterdam
- Amber Striekwold, PhD candidate Food and Agricultural History, Utrecht University
- Jon Verriet, Senior Science Advisor, Netherlands Commission for UNESCO
The advisory board consists of:
- Louise Fresco, President of the Executive Board of Wageningen University & Research and emeritus distinguished professor at University of Amsterdam
- Claudia Roden, Cookbook writer and cultural anthropologist
- Peter Scholliers, Emeritus Professor of Contemporary History at Brussels Free University
- Irene Zwiep, Professor of Hebrew and Jewish Studies at University of Amsterdam)
Word Gastronomische Vriend
En draag bij aan het behoud en de uitbreiding van een van de grootste gastronomische collecties van Europa.
